A Bishop, Vikings and The Ark

mosaic in the oratory of Germigny-des-Prés

Do you remember Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark? In the movie, the Nazi Germans are trying to find the Ark of the Covenant in the belief that whoever possesses it would never be defeated in combat. This assumption is based on several references to the Ark in the Bible as the “strength and glory of God.” (source: Wikipedia). The Israelites consulted and carried it with them during battles, helping them gain victory over their enemies. The most famous is the crumbling of the walls of Jericho after carrying the Ark around the city for seven days, allowing the people of Israel to enter and take the city. However, the Nazis forgot that there are also Bible accounts saying that looking into the Ark or even merely touching it would result in death. So, even when they got possession of it near the end of the film, it was only short-lived. They even weren't able to use for they met their death upon opening the Ark to "test " its might before presenting it to the Führer. And Indiana Jones and his friends were saved from their clutches, and the Ark was safely sealed and stored in a secret place, along with other religious and mythical relics.


Well, if one believes in the power of the Ark and link it to the survival of the oratory of Germigny-dès-Pres during the tumultuous Middle Ages, then one can write a good story, even a novel about it. When Vikings raided the town by the end of the 9th century, everything except the sanctuary was destroyed. And what is inside this chapel that exempted it from being torn down? --- a beautiful mosaic of the Ark of the Covenant with two cherubim guarding over it. Like the Mosta Dome in Malta, its survival can be considered “miraculous”. Can it be due to the presence of the Ark, even if it is just an image? Maybe. And with the two sentinel angels which seem to be almost a replica of the ones on the Ark’s cover, perhaps it is a representation of the double protection of the Ark and the place it is housed in. Bishop Theodulf might have foreseen the destruction of the villa and sought to protect it by having the mosaic created in his private chapel. Or more likely, the Scandinavians spared it for being a place of Christian worship. During that time, many Norsemen were being converted to Christianity and this may have contributed to the oratory’s preservation.


Whatever the reason (and all these are just my conjectures), the fact remains that the mosaic has survived twelve centuries and is still visible up to the present. The oratory might have been renovated with indifference to the original materials used, but at least the mosaic is preserved. The Spartan atmosphere inside the church emphasizes the warm, golden colors of this beautiful religious artwork. And maybe, it can inspire you to write a historical-mystery novel about the whereabouts of the real Ark of the Covenant or the fate of Bishop Theodulf who was a prominent theologian and member of the court during Charlemagne’s reign but end up in exile for treason and was believed to be poisoned on his way back to Orléans upon his release. Or better yet, a romantic story between a Viking knight and a lady of the Frankish kingdom during the siege of the town *winks.*

The Latin inscription below the mosaic reads:

As you gaze upon the holy propitiatorium and Cherubim, beholder,
And see the shimmering of the Ark of God's covenant,
Perceiving these things, and prepared to beset the Thunderer with prayers,
Add, I beg you, Theodulf's name to your invocations.'

- Source: Wikipedia

(Germigny-des-Prés part II, see part I)

Not-so-Wordless Wednesday

a butterfly and a bee “sharing” a flower

If you knew what I know about the power of giving,
you would not let a single meal pass without sharing it in some way.

Buddha (563 BC – 483 BC)

I was actually trying to get a photo of the flower with the butterfly on it, but I got more than what I hoped for. Another winged creature flew and joined the limelight with Mr. Brown-spotted Yellow Butterfly. And it appears that Mr. Busy Bee is not only intent on having his share of camera exposure but even more on having his portion of the “feast”. The flower must be nectar-filled as these two insects seem to be oblivious to my presence. Or maybe it was just my lucky day *grins*


I’m not an entomologist, but I thought butterflies are territorial. So I’m expecting that it would chase the bee away. However it seems not to mind the other insect’s partaking of the food. Perhaps the amount of nectar in this flower is more than enough so it doesn’t mind sharing *smiles.* Or the butterfly might be thinking since it is a lot bigger than the bee, its size would scare the other away. But the bee seems to be undeterred to have his piece of the banquet.


Whatever the reason, I’m glad I was able to capture this moment, even for posterity’s sake. And maybe, I should try to grow this flower to attract more bees and butterfly. And speaking of the flower, can someone please tell me what kind it is. It looks like some sort of thistle, but I’m not sure. And for butterfly lovers, any idea about the name of the one in the picture? I would greatly appreciate your help *thankful grin.*

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A Feel of the South

oratory of Germigny-des-Prés, Loiret, France

No, this is not in the Mediterranean region. This oratory in Germigny-des-Prés is in the Region Centre of France, built at the start of the 9th century by Bishop Theodulf of Orléans. Now one of the oldest churches in the country, it was once part of the bishop’s palace complex in the Gallo-Roman villa of Germaniacus. The chapel is built around a square lantern tower extending towards the four cardinal points, forming a Greek cross. This layout became the archetype for many Byzantine structures. And in France, the oratory of Germigny-des-Prés seems to be the oldest with this architecture.


When we visited the town last summer, we could have passed the chapel without knowing. It does not have an elaborate structure or ornately-designed edifice. But I like its “austerity” --- it coaxes you to shed your pretentions and bare your soul to the One above. As a sanctuary, its “massiveness” amplifies the feeling of safety, a solid refuge from the “evil” and harshness of the world outside, if not for the people of today, at least to those who lived during the uncertain times of the Middle Ages. I could imagine Bishop Theodulf coming here to meditate and seek guidance as he tries to expound on Christian morality, write theological capitularies and combat faulty interpretation of what was discussed and agreed upon in the council of Nicaea. With its narrow windows and thick walls, the interior exudes silence and solemnity, a great atmosphere for contemplating and praying.


On a clear blue day, there’s a kind of serenity, just by gazing at it from the outside. And with the conifers around it, it has a Mediterranean feel to it… like I’m somewhere in Provence or Tuscany. And it being in north-central part of France, the view is quite uncommon. I believe it would have more of the “Roman” feel about it if during its restoration in the 19th century its original construction was respected. But then, there’s nothing we can do about it now. At least we can still see a glimpse of how it must have looked like almost a dozen of centuries ago. In fact, the oratory is the only surviving structure when Vikings invaded the villa several decades after its construction. And even if some architectural historians find the present-day oratory a "reconstruction" and not a restoration, I believe we're still fortunate to have it still standing after all these years.

(Germigny-des-Prés part 1)

And Then There Was One

citronella-scented pelargonium that I'm hoping to grow

Do you remember my favorite pelargonium? The two remaining cuttings I have of it now lay brown and shriveled. They did not survive winter *sad sigh*. I was actually expecting them to make it through the cold season because they actually sprouted new leaves and stems for the past several months since I planted them. I kept them inside the house knowing that they wouldn’t be able to withstand the freezing temperature outside. Until about a week or two ago, they were doing okay. But then the leaves and stems started to droop. I thought the soil must have dried up. So I watered them. However, it did not do them any good. They just sort of withered away *sad face.* Maybe it’s because I changed their location (I thought they were not getting enough sunlight so I put them by the window). Or it’s just that my gardening skills are still limited to easy-to-care-winter-tolerant plants. Oh well, I can always try again next year, right?

flowers of my favorite pelargonium

I feel sad but I am not fully dispirited. I still have one cutting of the scented-leaf type. I had several cuttings of it last year, just like my preferred pelargonium. However, with my brown thumb, I have only remaining. But it is still good news because until now, it still remains healthy. I just really hope it won’t die on me. It would be the last one from the cuttings last year and I really would like to grow one. I grew garden pelargonium (Pelargonium x hortorum) about two or three years ago from seeds. But they also did not survive winter.


So I’m putting my hopes to this sole cutting I have. Its flowers’ color and appearance are close to my favorite pelargonium. However the hues are darker, and what’s more the leaves smell like citronella grass. I like its tangy, crisp fragrance --- it surrounds you with a feeling of freshness, not only physically but also emotionally. Its scent invigorates the mind and the spirit, like a sudden rain shower drenching our heated body on a humid afternoon. Or being under the rush of waterfalls, feeling the rivulets of water dripping down our back. Or taking dip on a cool pond with the ripples glistening with the sun’s rays.

Well, I really hope this cutting survives. But if it doesn’t, then I’ll try again next year, and the year after that and the year after that. *smiles.* Who knows, I’ll be able to grow one successfully in the coming years of trial and error.

Not-so-Wordless Wednesday

a view of the mountain tops of the Massif de Néouvielle

I feel like I’m on top of the world seeing this spectacular panorama from Col de Portet (Portet Pass, around 2200m above sea level) in the municipality of St. Lary Soulan, Hautes-Pyrénées. It’s neither a view from Mont Blanc in the Alps nor Mt. Everest in the Himalayas, nevertheless, the landscape took my breath away. The drive up here was quite difficult (the unpaved road snakes through the mountainside with a sharp inclination) but I’m fairly certain you’ll agree that it was worth it. The route is not always open, especially during bad weather conditions, and we were lucky enough that vehicles are allowed to pass on the day we chose to visit the place. And I believe we’re even more fortunate to witness the mist and the clouds lifting and swirling around the mountain crests giving it an almost heavenly appeal. I guess no one can blame me if I started singing “I’m on the top of the world” à la Karen Carpenter (though I don’t have her voice) *smiles.*

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